As you know, I became obsessed with BBQ ribs over the last few summers. It appears to be something that Canadians just can't do right - let's be honest. It takes time and plenty and a certain capacity to accept that what you are eating is not high on the Canada Food Guide. We like those Bill Shatner All Bran ads a wee bit too much for that.

So I hunt for the ability to cook my own and learn from those who have gone before. I have written about Ralph's Ribs in Ithaca based on one rib tasted at the Ithaca Farmer's Market. This trip we went to the restaurant at the south end of town on #13 and were simply amazed.

While I started with a great gumbo that got shared around, the first thing you really notice about a rib at Ralph's Ribs is the cut of meat. I think it is both the back and the side so that when you look at the rectangular rib sitting on the plate you have to appreciate that the rib is running the length of the rectangle, not across it. As a result, what you are looking at on that plate is a half-side, just a half-order. The kid's order of one rib is unfinishable by our meat eating monster. I asked Robert who could eat a whole one but he just smiled. And just to ensure that equal time is given, the pulled pork on a bun and pulled chicken on a salad were also fantastic.

Then consider the side dishes. For a buck more I got a servicing of collard greens as well as something called Virginia peas and rice. I love collards and have planted them, a sort of rough non-head forming cabbage, when I have not been able to find them in the grocery. Sweated in a little butter with vinager they are a great counterpart to the well sauced rib, cutting nicely like hops in a malty beer. The rice was light and tomatoed, like golash but not flavoured with paprika. I need to know more about southern BBQ sides. Free cornbread, too, is encouraged rather than fries. Cold unsweetened tea completes the scene laid before you on the tray that is your dish.

Another thing is the passion. All the ribs places I have gone share that desire to make greatness - unlike a lot of restaurants you go to - but at Ralph's it seems to get into everything. The tables are covered with plain brown paper which is used by kids for drawing and, in turn, by Ralph's as artwork. The staff all appear to love working there and joint owner of the joint Robert Wright, shown below in the kitchen, with whom I have spoken now twice, immediately tells you about the cut of the meat as well as the sauce. The business is a dream coming true and you can feel that. When we were driving away we noticed the smoker out back and took a photo of the guy manning it - on a 95º F stinking hot Wednesday - was as happy a clam as ever there was.

Dinosaur BBQ in Syracuse is rightly famous and has taught me the way of the rib through its cookbook. I have only had one serving of their ribs at the New York State Fair last summer so I am out on a bit of a ledge comparing but the dry style of Dinosaur is another expression of the rib and one that is not so...umm...fun. It is fine fine slow cooked meat one bone and well worthy but it is not such gooey, sweet sticky fun. I also do not recall that hammy aspect that I have enjoyed this summer both at Beale Street in Maine and at Ralph's. So if you are in Ithaca, Cortland, Syracuse or Binghampton...I would just go tonight. Go see Ralph. Heck, it is under three hours from Kingston. Go as soon as you read this - your life will be better. If you can find as good or better, please let me know...but for now, this is the best ribs joint I have found so far.